Kitchen Faucets
Chapter 1
Faucet Fiasco
You’ve
probably seen more than one TV sitcom scene with the proverbial comedy and
craze of someone trying to repair a kitchen faucet. But it’s no laughing matter when suddenly
it’s your kitchen faucet that needs fixing. The plumbing and drain experts at Master Plumbing & Leak Detection recommend
the following “first” and “next” steps.
Then you’ll find a comprehensive listing of how to repair a variety of
faucet types, plus a few tips on sink spray diverters.
First Step – Getting Your Faucet’s ID
The fist step
in fixing a leaking or sluggish faucet is identifying which of the two basic
types of faucets you’re dealing with:
§
Compression faucet: Older design with two handles and one spout.
§
Washerless faucet: More recent design, usually with a single
lever or knob that controls the flow and mix of hot and cold water by aligning
interior openings with the water inlets.
These faucets may be one of the several types: disc, valve, ball, or cartridge.
Because
models vary with each manufacturer, it’s important to get identical replacement
parts.
Next Steps
Let’s start
with the absolute most important tip of all:
Before doing any work on your kitchen faucet, turnoff the water at the
fixture shutoff valves or at the main shutoff valve and open the faucet to
drain the pipes. And here are a few more
steps you’ll be glad you took:
§
When you’re taking the faucet apart, douse stubborn
connections with penetrating oil before trying to loosen them with a
wrench. Tape-wrap the wrench’s jaws to
prevent scratching ay visible parts of the fixture.
§
Before starting any faucet repair, plug the sink so
small parts can’t fall down the drain.
§
Line the sink with a
towel to prevent damage from tools or parts accidentally dropping.
§
As you disassemble the faucet, line up the pieces in
the order that you remove them so you can put them back together properly.
And again,
please remember if you don’t want to star in your own situation comedy at home
do turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valves or at the main shutoff
valve and open the faucet to drain the pipes.
Leaking Compression Faucets
If your
faucet has separate hot and cold water handles, it’s probably a compression
faucet (also called a stem or washer faucet).
In this faucet, a rubber seat washer is secured to the stem, which has
very coarse threads on the outside. When
you turn the handle to shut off the faucet, the steam is screwed down,
compressing the washer against the valve seat in the faucet body. The steam is
secured by a packing nut, which compresses the packing (twine, a washer, or an
O-ring) and prevents water from leaking around the stem.
§
If water leaks around the handle, tighten the packing
nut. If that fails, replace the packing.
§
If the faucet leaks from the spout, either a washer
is defective or a valve seat is badly corroded.
§
To find out which side needs work, turn off the
shutoff valves one at a time; the leak will stop when one or the other is
turned off.
§
Take off the handle, remove the stem, and either
replace the washer or replace or recondition the valve seat.
Taking the
faucet apart
1.
With the handle removed, lift off the steam and
packing nuts by turning the nuts counterclockwise with an adjustable-end wrench
or a pair of rib-join pliers. Be careful
not to strip the nuts.
2.
Unscrew the stem, lifting it straight out of the
faucet body.
3.
Examine the threads.
4.
If they’re damaged or worn, replace the stem; if not,
checking the packing for wear.
Replacing the packing and washer
- To replace the worn packing, either remove the
O-ring packing washer and slide on an exact duplicate, or scrape off the
twine and wrap new twine clockwise around the stem.
- To replace a cracked or worn seat washer, remove
the screw and washer; install a duplicate washer. If the threads are too worn to hold a
screw, snap in a swivel washer.
Working on the valve seat
- To replace a removable valve seat that’s pitted
or corroded, insert a seat wrench into the valve seat and turn it
counterclockwise until the seat lifts out.
The new valve seat should be an exact duplicate. Coat the threads of the new seat with
pipe join compound before installing it.
- To recondition a non-removable valve seat, grind
down its burrs with a seat dresser (an inexpensive tool you can buy from a
plumbing supply dealer). Insert and
turn clockwise once or twice until the seat is smooth; remove metal
fillings with a damp cloth.
Cleaning your faucet aerator
If the flow from your faucet
is sluggish, the trouble may be in the faucet aerator. This device, at the tip of most faucet
spouts, mixes air and water for smooth flow.
But minerals or dirt particles in the water often build up on the screen
and disc, blocking the flow. If mineral
deposits are to blame or if aerator parts are damaged, it’s best to replace the
aerator. If dir is the problem, follow
these steps:
- Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout.
- To loosen stubborn connections, douse them with
penetrating oil.
- Disassemble and set the parts aside in
order. Clean the screen and disc
with a brush and soapy water.
- Use a pin or toothpick to open any clogged holes
in the disc.
- Flush all the parts with water before putting
them back together.
Leaking Valve Faucets
A valve faucet has a valve
assembly on each side (one for hot water, one for cold) through which water
flows up and out the spout. Moving the
handle from side to side controls the mix, moving forwardd and backward
controls the flow.
- The main problems you may encounter with a valve
faucet are spout leaks, loose handle assemblies, and sluggish flow.
- A leak at the base of the spout may be due to a
faulty spout O-ring.
- If the spout drips, you may need to replace on or
more of the valve assembly parts.
- F the handle is loose, a simple adjustment to the
handle screw or cam assembly at the back of the faucet ca remedy it.
- If sluggish flow is the problem, the strainers or
aerator may be clogged with sediment and need cleaning.
Leaking Ball Faucets
Ina ball faucet, water flows
when openings in the rotating ball align with hot and cold-water inlets in the
faucet body.
- If water Leaks from under the handle, leave the
water on and tighten the adjusting ring.
- If the leak persists, turn off the water and
replace the cam.
- For a dripping sout, replace the inlet seals and
springs or the ball.
- Cure any leaks around the spout sleeve by
replacing the O-rings on the faucet body.
Leaking Cartridge Faucets
A cartridge faucet has a
series of holes in the stem-and cartridge assembly that align to control the
mix and flow of water. Usually, leaks
occur because of worn O-rings or a faulty cartridge.
- Look at the O-rings on the faucet body. If they’re in good shape, remove the cartridge
(look under the spout sleeve on the outside of the faucet for the retainer
clip that holds the cartridge in place).
- If the cartridge is worn, replace it with a
duplicate.
- Cartridges vary, so read the manufacturer’s
instructions before installing a new one.
The most common type has a flat side that must face front. Otherwise, the hot and cold water supply
will be reversed.
- Be sure to fit the retainer clip snugly into its
slot.
Sink Spray Diverters
A kitchen sink spray has a
spray head attached to a hose, which is connected to a diverter valve in the
faucet body. When you squeeze the spray
head handle, the diverter valve reroutes water from the faucet ot the spray
head hose.
- If the flow is sluggish, make sure the hose isn’t
kinked.
- Clean the aerator in the spray nozzle.
- Continued sluggishness may indicate diverter
valve problems.
- Clean the valve or replace it.
- If the spray head leaks, remove it from the hose
and replace the washer.
- For a leak at the faucet end of the hose, tighten
the hose coupling.
- If the hose itself leaks, it’s probably
cracked. Replace it.
Moen faucet
repair?
Moen faucets have cartridges that can be
replaced. There is a clip (on top) that has to be pulled up and out before the
cartridge can be replaced. Often it seems stuck as if it will not come out.
Some replacement cartridges provide a plastic square to turn the cartridge in
the valve body 1/4 turn. This breaks it free from the valve grease that it is
stuck in. If, after replacing the unit ,the hot and cold are reversed,
re-install with the cartridge turned 180 degrees.
Delta
faucet repair?
You can buy a Delta single handle faucet
repair kit with a tool for maybe five to seven bucks. It has all the
instructions and is very easy to do.
The
faucet "clunks" when I turn it on...
99% of the time when you hear a clunk in any
pipe when you turn a faucet on/off - it's a loose washer in the faucet. When
you take it apart be sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don't -
turn the water back on and flush out the missing part.
Bathroom
faucet drips when the toilet is flushed or shower is on...
Could be a loose washer. The pressure holds
it down when no other faucet is running water and the lower pressure let's it
rise up a bit when other water is used.
Claw
foot tub faucets?
These faucets are special to CFTs they have 2
3/8"; centers. Some units have 1/2"; and some have 3/4"; water
connections at the back. The 3/4"; needs special CFT supply pipes. Most
older faucets are not code and it is still easy to buy non-code faucets. The
code is that the faucet spout must have a gap of at least 1"; between the
top of the tub rim and the bottom of the spout - that's so bath water in the
tub cannot siphon back into the drinking water supply.
Still have questions? Schedule an appointment with Master Plumbing and Leak Detection.